Ingredient Glossary

A plain-language reference for every active ingredient in /PHD/ formulations — what it is, what it does, and what to expect from it. Reviewed by our dermatologist council.

Salicylic Acid

Salicylic Acid

Unclogs pores and calms active acne

Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) derived from willow bark. It's oil-soluble, meaning it penetrates deep into sebum-filled pores to dissolve dead skin, blackheads and microcomedones. It's the gold-standard topical ingredient in dermatology for acne-prone and combination skin.

At 2%, it's strong enough to clear active breakouts without the stinging or flaking most people associate with acne treatments.

Key benefits

  • Unclogs congested pores and blackheads
  • Reduces active acne inflammation
  • Smooths rough or bumpy skin texture
  • Controls excess oil production
  • Gradually fades post-acne marks
Niacinamide

Niacinamide

Evens tone and strengthens the barrier

Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is one of the most studied ingredients in dermatology. It regulates sebum, reduces hyperpigmentation, strengthens the skin barrier, and calms redness — all from a single molecule.

At 10%, it visibly fades dark spots from post-acne marks and sun damage over 8–12 weeks of daily use. It's safe to layer with almost any other active, which is why it appears in multiple /PHD/ formulas.

Key benefits

  • Fades post-acne marks and hyperpigmentation
  • Minimises the look of enlarged pores
  • Regulates sebum without stripping
  • Reinforces the skin barrier and reduces trans-epidermal water loss
  • Pairs safely with Vitamin C, Retinol and AHAs/BHAs
Vitamin C

Vitamin C

Brightens dullness and defends against UV damage

Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that neutralises free radicals generated by UV exposure and pollution, while simultaneously inhibiting melanin production. The result: brighter, more even-toned skin and visibly firmer texture over time.

/PHD/ uses 10% stabilised Vitamin C — potent enough to shift tone, gentle enough for daily morning use under sunscreen.

Key benefits

  • Brightens dull, tired-looking skin
  • Fades uneven pigmentation and sun spots
  • Boosts collagen synthesis for firmer skin
  • Protects against environmental oxidative stress
  • Enhances sunscreen performance when layered underneath
Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic Acid

Deep hydration without heaviness

Hyaluronic acid is a humectant your body already produces — it can hold up to 1,000× its weight in water. Topical application plumps the skin, softens fine lines and restores a dewy, hydrated finish that lasts.

/PHD/ uses multi-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid so hydration reaches multiple layers of skin — not just the surface. It's built into almost every /PHD/ serum and moisturiser so actives never work on dehydrated skin.

Key benefits

  • Deeply hydrates without clogging pores
  • Softens the appearance of fine lines
  • Restores bounce and suppleness
  • Safe for every skin type, including sensitive and oily
  • Layers under every other product in your routine
Alpha Arbutin

Alpha Arbutin

Targets dark spots and uneven tone safely

Alpha arbutin is a naturally-derived tyrosinase inhibitor — it blocks the enzyme that triggers melanin production, stopping new dark spots from forming while gently fading existing ones. Unlike hydroquinone, it's safe for long-term use.

At 2%, it's clinically validated to reduce pigmentation intensity over 8 weeks in Indian skin tones.

Key benefits

  • Fades stubborn dark spots and uneven patches
  • Prevents new hyperpigmentation from forming
  • Safe for sensitive and darker skin tones
  • Non-irritating, suitable for long-term daily use
  • Pairs well with Vitamin C and Niacinamide

Products with Alpha Arbutin

Tyrobright™

Tyrobright™

Next-generation brightening complex

Tyrobright™ is a modern brightening active built around a tyrosinase-inhibition mechanism similar to alpha arbutin, but delivered as a multi-molecule complex. It targets pigmentation at multiple points in the melanin production pathway — which is why it's particularly effective on stubborn patches that haven't responded to single-active treatments.

Gentle enough to pair daily with Vitamin C and Niacinamide, Tyrobright™ is a signature /PHD/ inclusion in advanced brightening serums.

Key benefits

  • Fades multi-layered pigmentation and dark patches
  • Works upstream of melanin synthesis
  • Safer long-term alternative to hydroquinone
  • Non-irritating, suitable for every Indian skin tone
  • Stacks well with Vitamin C, Niacinamide and Alpha Arbutin

Products with Tyrobright™

N-Acetyl Glucosamine (NAG)

N-Acetyl Glucosamine (NAG)

Niacinamide's clinical companion for pigmentation

N-Acetyl Glucosamine — or NAG — is a naturally-occurring amino sugar that inhibits the glycosylation of tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production. In simple terms: it shuts down pigment production before it starts. Clinical studies show that NAG combined with niacinamide is significantly more effective at fading hyperpigmentation than either ingredient alone.

Bonus: NAG is a precursor to hyaluronic acid, so it also supports barrier hydration while it corrects tone.

Key benefits

  • Fades hyperpigmentation and post-acne marks
  • Compounds the brightening effect of niacinamide
  • Supports natural hyaluronic acid production
  • Smooths skin texture over time
  • Gentle enough for sensitive skin
Retinol

Retinol

The gold standard for ageing and texture

Retinol is a vitamin A derivative that speeds up cell turnover, boosts collagen and smooths fine lines — the most clinically validated anti-ageing ingredient in existence.

/PHD/ uses a 0.3% encapsulated retinol formula designed for gradual tolerance-building on Indian skin, which is more prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation from overuse. Start 2× a week, build up slowly.

Key benefits

  • Smooths fine lines and wrinkles
  • Refines texture and minimises pore appearance
  • Accelerates fading of post-acne marks
  • Boosts collagen production over 12+ weeks
  • Encapsulated delivery reduces irritation

Products with Retinol

Peptides

Peptides

Signal your skin to rebuild collagen

Peptides are short chains of amino acids that act as signalling molecules — they tell your skin cells to produce more collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. Over time, this translates to firmer, bouncier, more resilient skin.

/PHD/ formulations combine signal peptides (like Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1) with carrier peptides (like Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 and Myristoyl Hexapeptide-5) for maximum bio-availability.

Key benefits

  • Stimulates natural collagen production
  • Firms and lifts sagging skin
  • Reduces the depth of fine lines over time
  • Gentle enough for sensitive skin
  • Complementary with retinol in an anti-ageing routine
Peptazin™

Peptazin™

Advanced peptide complex that calms inflammation and rebuilds skin

Peptazin™ is a multi-peptide complex that pairs signal peptides (which tell fibroblasts to produce more collagen and elastin) with neuro-peptides (which relax micro-tension and reduce inflammation). The result: calmer skin, faster post-breakout recovery, and visibly smoother texture over time.

In /PHD/'s Salicylic Acid Acne Spot Treatment Gel, Peptazin™ works alongside salicylic acid to speed up the healing of active acne and minimise the post-inflammatory marks pimples tend to leave behind. Formulated to work at low concentrations, it delivers measurable recovery without the irritation retinoids can cause — making it safe for sensitive, acne-prone skin.

Key benefits

  • Accelerates recovery of active acne spots
  • Reduces post-inflammatory redness and marks
  • Boosts collagen and elastin synthesis
  • Reinforces the skin barrier after breakouts
  • Non-irritating — safe on compromised, acne-prone skin

Products with Peptazin™

Ceramides

Ceramides

Rebuilds a compromised skin barrier

Ceramides are naturally occurring lipids that make up 40–50% of your skin's outer barrier. When that barrier is compromised — by over-exfoliation, harsh actives, pollution, or eczema — skin becomes dry, reactive and inflamed. Topical ceramides replenish what's been lost.

/PHD/ uses a multi-ceramide complex matched to the ratio found naturally in human skin.

Key benefits

  • Rebuilds a weakened skin barrier
  • Reduces redness, sensitivity and reactivity
  • Seals in moisture, preventing dehydration
  • Essential for retinol and AHA/BHA users
  • Safe for eczema-prone and post-procedure skin
Panthenol

Panthenol

Soothes, hydrates and calms irritation

Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) is a humectant + emollient that soothes irritated skin, locks in hydration and accelerates barrier recovery. It's the ingredient dermatologists reach for after procedures and for patients with rosacea or eczema.

/PHD/ builds panthenol into its sunscreen as the hero calming agent and layers it alongside every strong active (salicylic, niacinamide, alpha arbutin, HA, ceramide cleanser) so the barrier stays supported even when you're using retinol-adjacent or acne-fighting actives.

Key benefits

  • Immediately calms redness and irritation
  • Accelerates wound and post-procedure healing
  • Boosts hydration without greasiness
  • Safe for every skin type including infant skin
  • Ideal companion for strong actives